Spiti Valley: Offroad, offbeat and unforgettable
- The Talking Bee
- 12 minutes ago
- 6 min read
Group trips are always unique. You don't know who you will end up meeting. What kind of an experience you will have. What kind of conversations you will take back. My Spiiti trip was no different.
In fact, I decided to go just five days before departure. Spiti had been sitting on my bucket list for years, and one day I just knew, I had to travel. Having visited Ladakh just 2 years ago, I was contemplating will it feel the same? But how can it be, when it's always the people who make the trip feel so different. I have always said this. It's the people who make memories, places are mere destinations!
Spiti was special. Spiti welcomed us with open arms. Especially given the fact that there was news about rains, flash floods, road closures and what not. I was even told not to travel. But I braved up, packed my bags and went ahead with my gut feeling anyway. (I am eternally grateful that we were safe and sound throughout the trip) Sometimes, the best journeys begin with a little uncertainty and a lot of faith.
Spiti is about its journey. The road trip. The Safar.
The journey to reach Spiti itself is so beautiful. Passing the greener Kinnaur Himachal. Staying among the apple orchards at tiny himalayan hamlets of Sangla and Kalpa with Snow capped Kinner kailash around you is a sight! The mornings are slow, peaceful, and filled with birdsong. You almost don't want to leave.
But the slow ascend from the Kinnaur region of Himachal to rugged terrain of Spiti is no joke. And its not for the faint hearted either. Once you enter the Spiti region, half of the routes don't even have roads.(You can hardly call them roads) Offroading at its best! You are driven on the mountains with just a path of stones and soil. Unstable yet moving forward.
On one side are deep valleys with the river flowing below. On the other are massive mountains that make you feel tiny. Every bend brings a different view and somehow, you stop worrying about the destination because the drive itself becomes the highlight.
You take pit stops at places that are so basic and rugged that don't even have proper facilities. But you do not mind it at all. All this is just taking you one step closer to nature.
And then come the monasteries.
Being at monasteries that are older than 1000 yrs makes you feel so insignificant yet they center you. They make you want to slow down and listen to the wisdom of the mountains. And then at some, you get to interact with the monks and if you are lucky, you are even offered tea by them.
There are countless scenic stops along the way, and the best ones are often the unplanned ones. (We had to shout it out together at times to stop at a pretty place where we'd spot a pretty place, and there were too many!) One such stop by the banks of the Baspa River turned into an unforgettable memory. A bigg plate of piping hot pakodas, steaming Maggi, and endless cups of chai with nothing but towering mountains and the sound of the river for company.
Then came a meal that I devoured with excitement at Hindustan Ka Aakhri Dhaba in Chitkul, the last inhabited village of India. Somehow, food always tastes better when you've earned it after hours on the road. And honestly, I felt this was the best meal of my trip. Kadhi, Rajma and Chane all together!
Chitkul had another surprise waiting. The ancient Devi Temple instantly reminded me of the temples tucked away in Harsil Valley. (A place that is special to me) The architecture, the intricate woodwork, and that unmistakable sense of calm felt familiar, almost as if the Himalayas were telling the same story in different valleys.
The journey continued to Khab Sangam, where the Spiti and Sutlej rivers come together in a dramatic confluence, before winding through the peaceful village of Nako. Walking through its narrow lanes brought back memories of wandering through tiny villages in Uttarakhand. Standing beside the serene Nako Lake, it was fascinating to imagine that in just three months, the water before us would transform into ice.
There aren't many places where you can stand almost between two worlds, but near Gyu Monastery, you find yourself at the edge of India with China just across the border. And inside the monastery rests one of Spiti's most fascinating treasures, a naturally preserved 500-year-old mummy.
Some of my favourite moments, though, weren't the famous landmarks. They were the quiet ones. An early morning spent with the new friends by the river outside our homestay, wrapped in silence, watching the valley slowly wake up. And the night before at Tabo when everyone was asleep and we did a bit of star gazing.
Then came the mighty Chicham Bridge, suspended above one of Asia's deepest gorges. The cliffs, canyons, and endless landscape looked nothing like what you'd imagine India to be. For a moment, it genuinely felt like I had been transported to Arizona. The place was windy and we almost felt dizzy!
And finally, one of the most heartwarming experiences of the trip was standing patiently (rather impatiently) in line at Hikkim, home to the world's highest post office, to send handwritten postcards to loved ones. In an age of instant messages, there was something incredibly special about knowing these letters (may) travel slowly across mountains before reaching home.
The starry nights of Tabo and Langza are something else! Living in a city, you almost forget what the night sky is supposed to look like. And then Spiti reminds you. Catching a glimpse of shooting stars awakes the child in you. And you will believe me when you will see it for yourselves. Every time someone spotted one, there was instant excitement. It's one of those simple moments that somehow stays with you. The quiet nights, the moon, the stars and seeing the world stand still around you as if nothing else exists. Just you, the mountains and the shooting stars.
Then comes the highlight of the trip. Chandratal.
Chandratal feels like it's out of this world. You know when you reach this place (Which is no small feat btw) that the dialogue from Lootera - “ Main marne se pehle ek baar chandrataal dekhana chahta hu” was so apt. The road tests your patience, back and even faith!
The place is surreal. And no, it's not like Pangong. Its absolutely not like that. Both are so unique in their own ways. Snow capped mountains all around and green meadows for you to walk on, that lead you to this lake. People were dancing and making reels here but I chose to just sit calmly for 3 hrs. No music. No phone. No agenda. Just watching the water change shades as the wind rippled across its surface.(It was super windy) I didn't even realise how quickly time passed.
Chandratal makes you want to do absolutely nothing.
Honestly, not just Chandratal but that's what Spiti does to you.It strips away the noise. It reminds you that the best journeys aren't always the most comfortable ones.
Sometimes they're dusty, bumpy, unpredictable, and that's exactly what makes them unforgettable.
Now, an important point I want to highlight. Spiti isn't for everyone.
It's not the kind of place you visit if you're looking for luxury, perfect roads, or a relaxed holiday where everything goes according to plan.
Spiti is for those who don't mind a little discomfort if it means experiencing something real.
Spiti asks you to embrace nature exactly as it is. Raw, unpredictable, and untouched.
It also asks you to respect the people who call these mountains home. Their way of life is simple and deeply rooted in their culture. And when I say culture, I don't just mean the monasteries, traditions, or festivals. I also mean the food.
The food here tells its own story. Warm bowls of thukpa after a long day on the road. Momos that somehow taste better in the mountains. Butter tea, simple local meals of dal chawal, and ingredients shaped by the harsh terrain and weather. It may not be fancy, but it's honest. It's comforting. And it's an important part of understanding what Spiti truly is.
If you're willing to embrace all of it, the bumpy roads, the basic homestays, the changing weather, the local food, the silence, and the slow pace, Spiti has a way of staying with you long after you've left. The way its going to be etched in my memory.
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